A comprehensive look at pattern drafting tools and how they function in the studio.
Kraft Paper Paper for drafting patterns in a home studio is essential. Without it, it would be close to impossible. In the basic tools and supplies article, I review a few different types of paper and the benefits of each. So, the reason why paper is essential, for both flat pattern making and even draping, is because you need a medium to create the patterns, make adjustments to patterns, and to catalog styles. Today, a lot of professional pattern makers use software programs like Gerber to create their patterns. And that’s great, for professionals. But, quite frankly it’s very complicated and not necessary for the home apparel designer. Once you advance your skills, you can start transferring your patterns to a digital format. I simple trace my patterns in Adobe Illustrator to catalog and share them.
“L” Square The “L” square is one of the most basic of the pattern making rulers. This ruler helps to create accurate 90° angles and straight edges. It measures, rules, and squares simultaneously.
Hip Curve The hip curve helps to shape the hip line, hem, and lapels.
Vary Form The vary form ruler blends and shapes armholes, necklines, side seam curves, and more! Just as the name suggests, it does a variety of jobs!
French Curve Essential tool for accurately shaping armholes, necklines, and collars.
Awl A handy tool and often overlooked, the awl will pierce a small hole in your pattern to indicate the end of a dart, pocket, trim, or button hole. The awl is also handy for scoring paper to fold, as well as “walking” your measuring tape around curves for accurate measuring.
Notcher The pattern notcher will create flawless pattern markings. For example, dart legs, seam allowance, center lines, ease, and to identify front from back patterns.
Tracing wheel Pointed and very sharp wheel transfers marking onto a clean sheet of paper. This tools is often used when retracing patterns or when transfer draped muslin onto paper.
Clear Plastic Ruler Perfect for measuring seam allowances and drawing dart legs.
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Dhunnee says
Excellent, I want to learn how to make different patterns for different styles
Mr. Grace says
I have challenge on suit jacket linen designing. I need help.
Deb L. says
Hello. I’m looking for the pattern drafting tools you shared in this post. I would like to buy good quality but I can’t find anything. I live in Europe so my access is fairly limited. Would you be so kind as to share websites that I can look at? Thank you kindly.
Amanda I says
Hi, I found these contacts in the metric pattern cutting for women’s wear (edition 5) textbook; it’s an invaluable resource! They seem to be in the UK so maybe it would be easier for you to get them:
Morplan, 56 Great Tichfi eld Street, London
W1W 7DF. Tel: 01279 435 333;
e-mail: web.support@morplan.com
https://www.morplan.com/
Eastman Staples Ltd, Lockwood Road, Huddersfield
HD1 3QW. Tel: 01484 888 888;
e-mail: enquiries@eastman.co.uk
https://eastman.co.uk/?v=fa868488740a
Franks Ltd, Kent House, Market Place, London
W1W 8HY. Tel: 0207 636 1244;
e-mail: info@rdfranks.co.uk ( this is actually a bookstore but with tons of books that industry professionals don’t want you to know about ?)
jamez says
i am love sub is patte make
fathima says
can you help me to draft a perfect bodice block for my 2 year old girl..? i tried almost everything and ending with perfection errors…
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
Hi there, I’m sorry…I’m not great at childrenswear!
funmi says
Hello,
I can draft a perfect bodies for your daughter . You can send me message via my instagram account @royaldaughterscoure
Jessica says
I found thus helpful. I would love to learn how to make pattern to fit. I’ve wasted money signing up at different fashion schools only to discover they are scams. Help pls!
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
Oh no! So sorry to hear that. What is your biggest challenge with fitting?
Sarah says
I can teach you if you don’t mind
The Oncoming Storm says
oh this is champion. i’m learning to be my own tailor and want to get more of a handle on taking medieval “garb” and updating it enough so i won’t be asked if i just came from a ren faire; or a viking gathering.
Diane Cooper says
My goal is to learn how to make patterns fit me!
Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says
Awesome! I’m so excited for you! I see you signed up for the e-mail list. You’ll get some e-mails from me over the next couple of weeks with a lot of info. Reply to any one of the e-mails if you have specific questions!