While there are many pattern drafting techniques you can use to turn your simple slopers into flattering fashion, there are a few basic techniques that you’ll use over and over again. Two of the most fundamental and versatile techniques are dart manipulation via pivot points and slash and spread/close. This article will focus on dart manipulation via pivot points, so keep reading to learn more about this fundamental technique.
What does dart manipulation even mean?
Basically, dart manipulation means to move darts around the pattern block or sloper where ever you want them. This is done for both fit or design preference.
Dart manipulation in flat pattern making allows you to move a dart from its original location to a new location. Moving a dart position is done by designating a pivot point and shifting the dart excess (space between dart legs) to a new location. This can be useful in order to get a better or more attractive fit as well as allowing you to create an entirely new style adding heaps variety to your handmade wardrobe!
Usually, darts are a feature on woven garments to make them fit the three dimensional form (the body)…but, they can also be used on knit patterns that are drafted with the intention to be sewn with a very stable knit fabric.
What Exactly are Darts?
Darts are wedge shapes in a pattern that are used to control fullness and to shape a garment to your body. On a bodice, for example, darts serve to shape the fabric around the curves of the bust. Bust darts are most commonly placed at the side of the bodice, and also at the waist. But, the possiblities are endless….You can move them to any location on the pattern.
You can learn a little more about darts in my post the basic flat pattern foundation.
Common Terms you should know…
Dart A wedged shaped cut out in a pattern piece used to create shape and control the fit of a garment.
Dart Leg Two lines that come together at a predetermined point on a pattern.
Dart Intake The amount of fabric excess that sits between dart legs.
Pattern Manipulation is when you either slash and spread/close or pivot a pattern piece to alter it from it’s original shape. Often times, a well fitting simple sloper is used when applying either of these techniques.
Pivot Point is a designated point on a pattern, often the bust point, where the pattern is pivoted from. This allows the pattern piece to change shape, but does not alter the fit.
Bust Point The pivot point (see above) on a front bodice block where the bust is noted and the pattern is manipulated from.
How to manipulate Darts
Creating a new style typically starts by moving or converting standard bust and waist dart location. The process is surprisingly easy to do, I promise! Darts can be moved from the standard side seam position to the neckline, shoulder line or armhole.
Another example of dart manipulation is the princess seam. The princess seam is a sleeker version of a fitted bodice, with the 2 parallel lines offering both fit and styling variations. I have full tutorial on drafting princess seams that you should check out.
You can create variations on this seam, too, shaping from the armhole instead of the shoulder.
IMPORTANT When a dart is relocated from a designated pivot point, the fit is not changed in the relocation process. However, it’s always the best practice to check fit every time you alter a simple sloper by sewing a fit muslin.
A little more than you wanted to know…
The dart excess can be used to create a wide variety of other design features such as, tucks, gathers, pleats, and even cowls. Essentially, the dart or its equivalent is always present somewhere in the pattern. The dart or its equivalent will always radiate from the pivot point.
Once your comfortable with this basic technique, you’ll be on your way to creating a stunning wardrobe from a well fitting set of simple slopers!
Additional notes on darts:
- Always fold vertical darts towards the center front or center back of the garment. In other words, the folded value of the dart’s fabric excess points towards the center front or center back.
- Always fold horizontal darts so that the folded dart value is below the line of the dart seam, or towards the hem of the garment.
- When planning dart for adding interesting design details, make sure that the dart value is not going to cause bulk in areas of the garment by intersecting with other bulky seams or at difficult angles.
Disclosure: Please note that some or all of the links contained in this post are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase. Please know that I have experience with all of these products and I feel confident recommending them to you because I have found them to be helpful and useful….Read more here.
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Thanks a lot for this beautiful article. I learn many things from the article. But what are the benefits of pivot points in terms of trading? I appreciate your writing.
Now I am going away to do my breakfast, afterward having my
breakfast coming yet again to read other news.
Thanks to you Im finally beginning to understand the role of darts and dart manipulation. There’s light at the end of the tunnel after all! 🙂 I would like to echo a question asked by modesola here…ho w to eliminate the shoulder dart altogether. Most blouses , tops or dresses in ready to wearf dont have one after all. So if your sloper already has a waist and bust dart, where will the shoulder dart go? I would really appreciate your answer…I tried to save you the trouble by scrolling through the other comments, but couldnt find anything. Many thanks!
Good afternoon, Janaki — There are several ways to eliminate shoulder darts, and three or four are discussed by Nicola at Modeliste Creative on YouTube. Nicola describes each technique individually, and she also uses them in combination. If your shoulder dart is small, you might also be able to move it into the existing waist dart, but I’m not sure. (I don’t think you would have a bust dart on the back pattern piece.)
Hello, thank you for the great illustrations.. I’m having some difficulty with the back of the bodice piece.. since there’s no busy point, how do I know where the pivot point is? My shoulder and waist darts don’t line up nicely like in the front
This is the most understandable website I’ve ever visited….. Thanks so much……
Hi, please is it possible to completely remove the dart while manipulating on a pattern before sewing the fabric
Hi I cannot understand how much gap should be between dart legs and where it should start plz help me
This is by far the clearest, most helpful website I have seen. Thank you so so much!!
Thanks, heaps!
Hi Ruth!
I have a question: what if I’m working with a dress pattern that already has a diamond dart and I want to add a shoulder dart? How would I go about adding the mid-shoulder dart to the pattern? Please help (fairy godmother) 😀
Thanks,
Shania
Hi there, what about turning the fisheye into a shoulder princess seam? What does the skirt look like? Is this a shift dress or does it have a separate bodice/skirt ???
This is amazing!!! Really helpfull.
Thanks for those kind words!
Love your video! It’s so clear and easy to follow.
Thanks so much!
This was soooo helpful! I couldn’t understand darts in college and this video made it so much easier. Thank you much mam! ❤
Wonderful! So glad that I could explain it easily!
Hi Ruth i just found this on Pinterest i love it very understandable love the details of every part of placing a dart THANK YOU
You’re so welcome!
WOW! You made that super easy! Now if only you had a tutorial on making a bodice sloper from my own personal measurements. Everyone else’s explanations seem so complicated!
Thanks! I am working on eCourses to do just that….
Yes Ruth that would be highly appreciated
This was just what i needed! I have read and reread about dartmanipulation and could not get my head around it…! Your video made it so much easier to understand. Thank you 🙂
So glad I could help you understand! You’re so welcome!
I was wondering what the technique is for removing darts completely. I have a sloper that has a side bust dart and I don’t want any darts on the new sloper. Can you help with this?
Hi Dee Ann,
Can you tell me a little more about why you want to do this? Are you going to use this pattern for a woven or a knit? Can you rotate it to the waist and then eliminate it that way? Send me an e-mail if you want to chat about this in more detail ruth (at) isntthatsew (dot) com
This is so insightful. thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome.