Learn the six simple steps to draft a custom fit bodice pattern block!
Why custom pattern blocks?
If you are interested in making clothing tailored to your body, learning how to draft a set of custom fitting pattern blocks is a must! If it seems like it is to confusing and should be left to the professionals, I’m here to tell you…it’s not that hard! Read on to learn the six simple steps to make your very own, tailor made bodice block!
In this post, I review the simple steps to draft the custom fitting back bodice pattern. Please see the tutorial on how to draft the front bodice pattern.
Check out my pattern-making 101 series to learn more tips, tricks, and tools of the trade!
Step 1 – Establish reference points
- Use a piece of paper large enough to fit your bodice block
- Draw a right angle (TIP: the best tool for the job is a “L” Square)
- Using a measuring tape, measure from your natural waist line to your back neck and record this measurement
- Mark this point on the right angle
Step 2 – Establish the shoulder measurement at the neck
- Measure the width between the center back line and the inside edge of your shoulder, record this distance (it is best to use the same measurement from the front bodice draft)
- Draw a vertical line using the recorded measurement width
- Next, measure from the neck to the waist line, record this measurement
- Mark this distance on the vertical line
Step 3 – Establishing the shoulder seam
- Measure from the center back line to the outside of the shoulder, record this measurement
- Draw in a vertical line using the distance measured above
- Measure from the center back at the waist line to that same outside shoulder point, record this measurement (Note; this will be measured on an angle)
- Mark the point measured above and draw in the line for the shoulder seam
Step 4 – Establish body width
- Measure across the back, from the center back line to the side seam, record this measurement
- Draw in the horizontal across back line using the measurement recorded above
- Measure from the center back waist line to the side seam, record this measurement
- Draw a hash mark at this distance on the waist line
Step 5 – Establishing side seam length
- Measure from the waist line at the side seam to the under arm, record this measurement
- Draw a hash mark at this measurement
- Draw a connecting line from the waist line to the under arm location
Step 6 – Connect the dots!
- Complete the pattern by connecting the dots. (Tip: the best tool for the job is the Dritz style and design ruler)
- Tip, make sure to “true” the pattern by making sure the following corners have right angles; center back waist and neck.
- Note; this is a simple bodice pattern without seam allowance, wearing ease, style lines, or darts. Please review my pattern making 101 series to learn more tips and tricks.
But, what about the front pattern?
Read the full post about how to draft the front bodice pattern block.
Test, test, test!
I would highly recommend sewing a muslin and testing the fit. At that point, any necessary adjustment can be made to the pattern block.
I hope you found this quick tutorial helpful!
If so, please don’t hesitate to please SHARE, COMMENT, and PIN!
It helps me to create more content, just like this!
Disclosure: Please note that some or all of the links contained in this post are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase. Please know that I have experience with all of these products and I feel confident recommending them to you because I have found them to be helpful and useful….Read more here.
Hi! I think I’ve now read every sewing tutorial on the planet for creating a sloper, and I now have a men’s shirt block (for my other half). Where I’m struggling is in how to turn that into a pattern for a button-down shirt. Any guidance?
I highly recommend getting a pattern drafting book, as it will be a better reference for you to refer to. Send me an e-mail, it’s easier to chat there. You can use the contact form on this blog.
Hello! I’m loving your tutorials! Can you please recommend a pattern drafting book? I’d love to learn how to create a sloper. Thanks in advance!
Thanks so much! Metric pattern cutting and Pattern Making for Fashion Design are both great!
So from my understanding after reading some of your pages… To make clothes that fit your personal measurements you make a bodice and then from the bodice you make a sloper… and then from the sloper you make sewing patterns for shirts, blouses and other kinds of tops?
Hi Leia,
Yes, that’s about right! And you’d do the same thing for a sleeve, a skirt, and a pant! You build a well fitting sloper and then always draft new garments from said pattern. That way, the fit will be more likely to be transferred into all your new creations!
Thank you very much for these super easy tips. I thought I can never learn pattern making after watching some videos on YouTube, but you explained it so well that I fell so exited and drafted my first bodice block. Really thanks :)))
I’m so happy to help Alexa! Let me know if you have any specific questions!
Thanks for your easy step by step guide to making a custom dartless bodice.Please do you have a step by step guide to making a bodice with darts on both the front and back pieces?
Hi there! I do not have one yet! It’s next on my list….adding darts to the dart-less bodice!
My only question left is: what are the blue mark (like a triangle starting from the bouton) on the picture of the final result?
Hi, do you mean the shape like this __|??? (see photo in link) http://isntthatsew.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Capture.jpg That shape means that the angle should be a perfect 90° Right Angle.
Thank you for your generosity in sharing all of these tutorials.
You’re very welcome!
This is wonderful! I’m so happy to see and hear the necessary steps to bodice making!
Thank you!
I just came across your website through pinterest. It. Is . AMAZING!! I have recently started sewing in hopes to make clothes that look as professional as store bought (I have a long long way to go). Reading your blog has already been such a big help to me. Thank you so much for making available all the knowledge and expertise that you have to someone like me!
Hi Ashley, so glad you found me! I’m so excited that you have picked up sewing as a hobby! It’s truly a lost art! Your kind words mean a lot to me, as I often feel like I don’t share enough on this site! My day job takes up, well…all day! So, I try to fit in as much posting as I possibly can! Make sure to sign up for the e-mail list, I have something super exciting in the works!
Thank you very much for all this information.
I have just started sewing as a hobby and your blog helped me a lot.
I’m from the Middle East and I,m very interested in translating your blog into Arabic language if you allow me to do so.
Should you are interested too, please let me know.
Maryam B
Thank you so much for posting this! I am so dreadfully lazy and undisciplined in my dress making that I have not gone into customizing any of my attempts, and things often come out rather odd. And this for a person of what I consider very average shape! No wonder that the recent fashions are often knits! They drape better despite the diversity in body shapes. This helps me understand the construction of an outfit much better than glaring penetratingly at a seam-line!
Hi Grace! So glad you found this helpful! I too, agree that knits fit a wide variety of body shapes much better than woven’s! Woven’s are hard! I must admit, the majority of my wardrobe is comprised of knits! However, this bodice, the way that it is, could be used as a knit foundation too!