Master these 7 simple tips and you’ll be on your way to making sewing patterns, like the pros!
Being armed with the basic knowledge of how to draft your own free sewing patterns is an invaluable skill. Contrary to what some people may want you to believe, it’s really not all that hard! It can be a little daunting at first because of the special tools and the seemingly scary math.
But, here’s the thing…
If you already know how to sew, you’re halfway there! There is no reason why you cannot transfer your sewing skills into drafting skills! At the very least, you can be altering the existing patterns you already own to make new styles!
Below, I’ll share my top 7 tips to get you started making sewing patterns just like the pros.
7 tips for drafting patterns like the pros
Tip 1. Make sure you have all the necessary tools and supplies
Having the right tools to make patterns is really important. There are a few basic tools that are necessary to have before you get started. Check out my comprehensive list of pattern making tools and supplies for a more in depth look on each tool.
Tip 2. Know how to use the pattern making rulers
Pattern making is easier than you think! You just have to do it. Dive in, head first! Be fearless! Pattern making is less of a SCIENCE and more of an ART! Essentially, all pattern making is, is taking a set of known measurements, plotting the points, and connecting the dots!
Here’s the insider secret, the way you connect said dots is with pattern making rulers! Here is a quick and simple explanation on how to use the pattern making rulers.
Tip 3. Make patterns by tracing your favorite garments
This technique works best with garments that have little to no shaping; like t-shirts, tank tops, leggings, and yoga pants. Basically, you lay these garments flat and trace all the way around them. But, don’t forget to add seam and hem allowances! Watch this video to see a simple technique to make free sewing patterns.
Tip 4. Understand ease and seam allowances
Ease is the amount of extra fabric that is built into the pattern to allow the garment to fit in a relaxed position. In other words, it allows for ease of movement. A woven pattern would have positive ease, where a knit pattern would have no ease or negative ease. Ease is used for both wearing ease and for design purposes.
Seam allowances are added to a pattern between the cutting line and the stitching line. Seam allowances allow for a specific amount of extra fabric for sewing. But, depending on the area, you may add more or less seam allowance. For example; side seams, hems, and necklines generally utilize different seam allowances. Find out more than you ever wanted to know about seam allowance here.
Tip 5. Know the basic terminology and markings used in the industry
Knowing the basic terms and markings used by the pros will make it easier for you to research and understand the information you might find on the internet or in books. Get started learning the basic pattern making terminology and pattern markings with these two articles.
Tip 6. Skip the fancy tools and software
You really only need 5 simple tools to get started making your own patterns. The good news is that you can most likely get them for less than $150! Check out my top 5 must have tools to get you started today!
Tip 7. Just go for it
I say, just dive in head first. Don’t worry about learning everything there is to know or having all the extra fancy tools. Just try it! Start simple and work your way to more advanced techniques! Trust me, you’ll never look back!
Like I mentioned above, pattern making is an ART, not a SCIENCE. You have to be FEARLESS! Just go for it, don’t be afraid of making mistakes. Want to know a secret? Industry professionals never get a pattern right on the first try! It takes many alterations and fit samples to produce the perfect pattern!
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Susan Stoppard says
Hi Pauline your blog is exactly what I have been looking for! !!I bought a top on line . When I got it the 2X only fit my teenage daughter who is a size 3 at best!!! How do you up size a pattern for an existing to small top to one that actually fits.
RARL1013 says
Hi Susan, Sorry to tell you..I’m not Pauline, I’m Ruth! Are you looking to trace/rub off the top you bought online and grade it up to fit you?
Pauline says
Hi, thanks for yours tips&tricks! How much ease would you build into for a woven cotton blouse?
Cheers,
Pauline
RARL1013 says
Hi Pauline,
It really depends on the style of the blouse and the desired fit. . . I’d say usually somewhere between 1″ to 6″ is pretty common! I know that is a broad range! It really depends on your preferred fit. One of the best ways to determine this, is to find a top that fits you really well, and measure how much ease is built in!
I like to add a bit more in the hip area, than in the waist/bust because I have larger hips and a smaller waist/bust and narrow shoulders. I really hope that helps! Thanks for stopping by!
Lauren says
Great tips! Thanks for sharing motivation to those who already know how to sew! Drafting patterns can be hard at first, but it is definitely a skill worth having. Thanks for sharing!
RARL1013 says
Thanks Lauren! It may be a bit scary at first, but . . . transitioning sewing skills to pattern making skills is easier than some want you to think! Thanks so much for stopping by!