How to create the classic princess seam pattern from a two dart bodice.
There are a few different styles of princess seams. In this article, we will look at the classic princess seam, which originates from the front and back waist darts and continues through to the shoulder darts. The two dart bodice is used for to make this classic pattern.
Step 1 Trace the front and back of your two dart sloper.
Step 2 Draw a style line from the mid-shoulder to the bust point. Measure 2″ up and 2″ down from the bust point and mark. These markings will later become your notches for sewing.
Step 3 Continue the style line from the mid shoulder, through the bust point, and down the inside dart leg. Measure in 3/4″ from the bust point and mark as X. Starting at the same mid shoulder point, draw a style line through your mark and connect to outside dart leg.
Step 4 Cut and separate pattern, removing the dart excess.
Step 5 Retrace your front outside panel onto new pattern paper, making sure to mark notches. Cut a slash line from the center of the side dart to point X created in step 3. Cut to, but not through point X. Slide dart closed and tape.
Step 6 Shape and blend the bust curve using your pattern making rulers. You will want to “walk” your patterns to make sure all seams are the same length.
Step 7 If more ease is needed, slash and spread from the bust point to the side seam and separate as much as necessary. Retrace the new pattern, shape and blend new lines, walk patterns again to ensure all seams are the same length. Generally, you will do this step after sewing and fitting a muslin.
Step 8 Trace the back two dart bodice. Using your vary form ruler draw a princess line from the shoulder dart to the waist dart. More than likely you will need to shift over the shoulder dart point to be in line with the waist dart point. Be sure to cross mark both dart points, as these will later become your notches for sewing.
Step 9 Continue the princess style lines through the inner and outer dart legs, removing the dart excess. Cut and separate. You will want to “walk” your patterns to make sure all seams are the same length.
Step 10 Add seam allowance to all pattern pieces. In the industry, 1/2″ is generally used for side seams and 1/4″ for necklines. Also, make sure to transfer the notches and grain lines.
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