Learn the six simple steps to draft a custom fit bodice pattern block!
Why custom pattern blocks?
If you are interested in making clothing tailored to your body, learning how to draft a set of custom fitting pattern blocks is a must! If it seems like it is to confusing and should be left to the professionals, I’m here to tell you…it’s not that hard! Read on to learn the six simple steps to make your very own, tailor made bodice block!
Check out my pattern-making 101 series to learn more tips, tricks, and tools of the trade!
Note: I kind of goof up the order of the steps listed below. Either way, you’ll get the same result! Also, don’t mind the guide lines I put in before hand! Maybe I was a little nervous!
Step 1 – Establish reference points
- Use a piece of paper large enough to fit your bodice block
- Draw a right angle (TIP: the best tool for the job is a “L” Square)
- Using a measuring tape, measure from your natural waist line to your neck and record this measurement
- Mark this point on the right angle
Step 2 – Establish the shoulder measurement at the neck
- Measure the width between the center front line and the inside edge of your shoulder, record this distance
- Draw a vertical line using the recorded measurement width
- Next, measure from the neck to the waist line, record this measurement
- Mark this distance on the vertical line
Step 3 – Establishing the shoulder seam
- Measure from the center front line to the outside of the shoulder, record this measurement
- Draw in a vertical line using the distance measured above
- Measure from the center front at the waist line to that same outside shoulder point, record this measurement (Note; this will be measured on an angle)
- Mark the point measured above and draw in the line for the shoulder seam
Step 4 – Establish body width
- Measure from the center front waist to the bust point (Note; this is approximately the fullest part of your breast, often near the nipple)
- Measure at the bust point, from the center front line to the side seam, record this measurement
- Draw in the horizontal bust line using the measurement recorded above
- Measure from the center front waist line to the side seam, record this measurement
- Draw a hash mark at this distance on the waist line
Step 5 – Establishing side seam length
- Measure from the waist line at the side seam to the under arm, record this measurement
- Draw a hash mark at this measurement
- Draw a connecting line from the waist line to the under arm location
Step 6 – Connect the dots!
- Complete the pattern by connecting the dots. (Tip: the best tool for the job is the Dritz style and design ruler)
- Tip, make sure to “true” the pattern by making sure the following corners have right angles; center front waist and neck.
- Note; this is a simple bodice pattern without seam allowance, wearing ease, style lines, or darts. Please review my pattern making resource page to learn more about fundamental pattern making techniques.
- Check out this video to learn how to add a dart to the dartless bodice.
But, what about the back pattern?
Test, test, test!
I would highly recommend sewing a muslin and testing the fit. At that point, any necessary adjustment can be made to the pattern block.
I hope you found this quick tutorial helpful!
If so, please don’t hesitate to please SHARE, COMMENT, and PIN!
It helps me to create more content, just like this!
Disclosure: Please note that some or all of the links contained in this post are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase. Please know that I have experience with all of these products and I feel confident recommending them to you because I have found them to be helpful and useful….Read more here.