Learn the six simple steps to draft a custom fit bodice pattern block!
Why custom pattern blocks?
If you are interested in making clothing tailored to your body, learning how to draft a set of custom fitting pattern blocks is a must! If it seems like it is to confusing and should be left to the professionals, I’m here to tell you…it’s not that hard! Read on to learn the six simple steps to make your very own, tailor made bodice block!
Check out my pattern-making 101 series to learn more tips, tricks, and tools of the trade!
Note: I kind of goof up the order of the steps listed below. Either way, you’ll get the same result! Also, don’t mind the guide lines I put in before hand! Maybe I was a little nervous!
Step 1 – Establish reference points
- Use a piece of paper large enough to fit your bodice block
- Draw a right angle (TIP: the best tool for the job is a “L” Square)
- Using a measuring tape, measure from your natural waist line to your neck and record this measurement
- Mark this point on the right angle
Step 2 – Establish the shoulder measurement at the neck
- Measure the width between the center front line and the inside edge of your shoulder, record this distance
- Draw a vertical line using the recorded measurement width
- Next, measure from the neck to the waist line, record this measurement
- Mark this distance on the vertical line
Step 3 – Establishing the shoulder seam
- Measure from the center front line to the outside of the shoulder, record this measurement
- Draw in a vertical line using the distance measured above
- Measure from the center front at the waist line to that same outside shoulder point, record this measurement (Note; this will be measured on an angle)
- Mark the point measured above and draw in the line for the shoulder seam
Step 4 – Establish body width
- Measure from the center front waist to the bust point (Note; this is approximately the fullest part of your breast, often near the nipple)
- Measure at the bust point, from the center front line to the side seam, record this measurement
- Draw in the horizontal bust line using the measurement recorded above
- Measure from the center front waist line to the side seam, record this measurement
- Draw a hash mark at this distance on the waist line
Step 5 – Establishing side seam length
- Measure from the waist line at the side seam to the under arm, record this measurement
- Draw a hash mark at this measurement
- Draw a connecting line from the waist line to the under arm location
Step 6 – Connect the dots!
- Complete the pattern by connecting the dots. (Tip: the best tool for the job is the Dritz style and design ruler)
- Tip, make sure to “true” the pattern by making sure the following corners have right angles; center front waist and neck.
- Note; this is a simple bodice pattern without seam allowance, wearing ease, style lines, or darts. Please review my pattern making resource page to learn more about fundamental pattern making techniques.
- Check out this video to learn how to add a dart to the dartless bodice.
But, what about the back pattern?
Click here to see the tutorial for the back bodice
Test, test, test!
I would highly recommend sewing a muslin and testing the fit. At that point, any necessary adjustment can be made to the pattern block.
I hope you found this quick tutorial helpful!
If so, please don’t hesitate to please SHARE, COMMENT, and PIN!
It helps me to create more content, just like this!
Disclosure: Please note that some or all of the links contained in this post are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase. Please know that I have experience with all of these products and I feel confident recommending them to you because I have found them to be helpful and useful….Read more here.
Hi, you are God sent. Thanks so much for passing this knowledge. Love you plenty.
I just want to say thank you so much for this video. I’m a 15 year old girl just getting into learning how to make clothing and I really wanted to learn how to make a bodice piece, all the other videos that I tried watching on youtube were so confusing and made no sense to me but I came across your website and I’m so happy I did! These are such clear, thourough instructions and I just want to say thank you so much for making this tutorial, I will definitely be making a pattern!
Thank you for the kind words! I really appreciate it!
I see some comments about the website but I am so thankful that this website exists. Not even fashion schools would teach valuable informations like this. I just discovered the website today and I’m so excited to learn every sections of it. Thank you for sharing and helping all learn. Your passion is inspiring.
Thank you, Su!
I was thinking, shouldn’t the line from the side to the outside of the shoulder be a little bit higher? You don’t want the arm hole too large
Thanks for the visual, otherwise I would have been very confused. I’m designing my own dress
Hi! Is there a separate tutorial for drafting the back bodice as well?
Yes, you can find it here http://isntthatsew.org/custom-bodice-block-pattern/
Hello! Could you maybe please do a video for this part as I am deathly confused? I have no idea how to measure these. Thank you!
Measure from the center front waist to the bust point (Note; this is approximately the fullest part of your breast, often near the nipple)
Measure at the bust point, from the center front line to the side seam, record this measurement
Draw in the horizontal bust line using the measurement recorded above
Measure from the center front waist line to the side seam, record this measurement
Draw a hash mark at this distance on the waist line
Hi!! Thanks for sharing all that amazing information!! I’ve searched for this for a long time. I only think that the website organization is a bit confusing, I can’t find the links easily, it keep taking me to a page with tons of other links. But, again, wonderful content!! =]
Thanks. It’s just me maintaining this site..and I’m no web developer. That page you’re referring to is just a list of all the pattern making posts. It could look nicer..but, I need to find a whole week to fix it…
Hi, Ruth ?! I sooo love this site! You are an angel! I’ve been looking for a site like this. By the way, I took up Garments when I was on 9th and 10th grade, so I have a bit of knowledge about drafting and sewing. Admittedly, I’m much leaning on drafting. On our lessons (in which once, we made a dress—semi-casual), we started learning about pattern foundations and the likes. Although ours was something like this: 1.Make a perpendicular angle on a folded craft paper (so we’d just transfer/copy the measurements) 2. Measure the length of your shoulders (from tip to tip); 2.1. Divide in half; etcetera etcetera LOL (I could still clearly remember every steps of the procedures but it would be better if I had some illustrations). Basically, it involves a lot of math, divide the shoulder length in half, the bust size in 4 then add 1″, so on and so forth; I’m not complaining though, it’s actually the main reason why I love drafting. Frankly, I’m a bit hesitant to try your way, but I’m also interested (coz yours is way faster). The thing is, I’m planning on designing and drafting the pattern of my own prom dress (it’s actually on Feb. 2018—I’m a Senior, so it’s realllyyyy important to me) and since last year, I’ve been looking and compiling (also Pinning) gown ideas from Pinterest. There would be a dress in which I like its sleeves (I have an addiction to long sleeves) or its unique neckline (I want it off shoulder), and I’m still debating if my dress would be A-line, or full circle but it would be certainly floor length. Gah! This is very lengthy, pardon me, but I’m really excited and just couldn’t contain it. Hahaha! One thing’s for sure: I’d be frequenting this lovely blessed site ?
Thanks for the kind words! There are many methods to pattern drafting and if you’re a math buff, I would stick with the more technical way of drafting patterns! Good luck on your prom dress, it’ll be great..I KNOW IT!
you are simply amazing ruth. you have made drafting incredibly simple for me.thanks and God bless you.
Thanks for the kind words. You’re welcome.
This is the easiest method I have been able to find-I have always been a visual learner and am the sort of person who never refers to directions when it comes to assemble things like furniture or appliances-it comes easier to me if I just lay it all out and look at it-most things are pretty self-explanatory if you just look at the way they are shaped. This is similar-if you just look at what you are drawing, you shouldn’t need the math-if it looks right, you’re doing it right. I needed to find out what and where to measure, without a lot of fussy calculations. Thanks!
You’re welcome! I agree fussy calculations are what intimidates people the most!
This is very nice and easy especially for beginners. Thanks for sharing
I understand how you made the pattern. The line is just too thick for me.
Hi Nickson,
What line are you referring to?
Hi.
Is there anyway you can redo this with numbers or letters. Than the colors went from green to red. It was confusing and I didn’t see any math.
Thank you for doing it though.
Thank you would have found more helpful if you had numbered each point to corelate with the diagrams .
i just ‘happened’ upon your tutorial on Pinterest and what an absolutely awesome find!!!! Easy to follow for a beginner like me, I LOVE LOVE LOVE it……. thank you so much for sharing
Your very welcome!
This is so awesome!!!! Thank u for sharing this amazing article with us. Its the best method to make the bodice block.